Alpha Hydroxy Acids - AHA

Would you like to improve the firmness and tone of your skin? Would you like your skin to glow with youth and vitality? Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) are a key ingredient to look for in your skin care if you want to actually improve the skin, instead of just temporarily affecting the way it looks. Instead of a product that sits on top of the skin, AHA penetrate the skin, removing dead skin cells, revealing a fresh, new layer of skin.

AHAs are naturally occurring acids, derived from the sugars in particular plants. They not only prevent clogged pores, they enhance cell renewal through exfoliation. They help hydrate the skin, increase collagen production, and improve its texture, making it appear more radiant. There are a range of AHAs to choose from depending on your skin's sensitivity level:
* glycolic acid - sugar cane
* lactic acid - milk
* malic acid - apples and pears
* citric acid - oranges and lemons
* tartaric acid - grapes

The most commonly used AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid because they have a special ability to penetrate the skin. An ideal treatment for busy people who are unable to take time off work for a deeper peel or laser resurfacing, AHA facial peels gently retexture the skin over a period of a few months. The treatments are also helpful in stabilising oily or acne-prone skin and improving skin tone.

AHAs work mainly as an exfoliant. AHAs loosen the glue-like substances that hold the surface skin cells to each other, therefore allowing the dead skin to peel off. The skin underneath has a fresher, healthier look with a more even colour and texture. With high concentration and long-term use, AHAs may also affect the deeper layers of the skin. Collagen and elastin regenerate making fine lines less obvious. AHAs are reported to improve wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation of photodamaged skin after months of daily application.

The two major side effects of AHAs are irritation and sun sensitivity. It appears that AHA may be able to reverse some of the damage caused by photoaging, but at the same time they make the skin more susceptible to photoaging. It is clear that anyone using AHAs must use a good sunscreen that contains UVA and UVB protection.

Alpha hydroxy acids have been used for thousands of years as a skin rejuvenating product. Cleopatra is reported to have bathed in sour mild (lactic acid) to improve her complexion. Now hydroxy acids are a common additive to numerous skin care products including moisturizers, cleanser, toners, and masks.

If you feel that your skin is looking dull, lifeless or uneven, using an AHA product may benefit you. AHA preparations are recommended for those whose skin is showing signs of ageing. Fine lines, brown marks and dry spots can improve with regular applications or peels. Glycolic acid may also prove helpful for those prone to acne. Using an AHA can quickly restore a fresh, healthy appearance.

AHAs are found in a variety of skin care products. Here are some guidelines to use when trying to decide which AHA formulation to use:
* It is best to pick one product that contains the proper formulation of AHA to use as your exfoliant, and then choose other skin care products or cosmetics that don't contain AHAs to reduce the likelihood of skin irritation.
* Using an AHA in a moisturizer base may be the best combination of products.
* Cleansers containing AHAs are not very effective because the AHA must be absorbed in the skin to work. Cleansers are washed off before this absorption occurs.
* At this time there are no effective products that combine AHA and sunscreen, because sunscreen is not stable at the pH required to make the alpha hydroxy acid effective.
* Sunscreen MUST be applied liberally when using an AHA product. The sunscreen should have an SPF of at least 15 for UVB protection and contain avobenzone, titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide for UVA protection.
* AHA work best in a concentration of 5% to 8% and at a pH of 3 to 4.
* Unfortunately, cosmetic manufacturers are not required to provide concentration information on the label. As a general rule of thumb, having the AHA listed as the second or third ingredient on the list makes it more likely it contains the proper concentration.
* The only way to know for sure the pH of a product is to test with a pH strip.

For the best results, leave-on preparations should be applied at night, if necessary twice daily. They can be alternated with other anti-aging preparations including retinoid creams and vitamin C. And don't forget the most important skin care tip - Always protect your skin from the sun!

You can find more informations about AHAs here.