Ceramides - Skin Lipids That Keep Skin Moisturized

Ceramides are natural lipids (fats) and a major component of skin structure. These fats allow skin to retain moisture. Moisturizers and other beauty products contain synthetic ceramides to replace those lost in the aging process.

Natural lipids ceramides are found in the outer skin layer which is made up of dead cells. They mainly work as a physical barrier. Ceramides are present in the outermost skin layer called stratum corneum which then performs their biological function of controlling growth and differentiation of skin cells. Growth and differentiation of skin cells is a complex biological process by which cells become specialized in their functions.

Scientists are uncovering the important role that ceramides play in the barrier function of the skin. The top layer of the skin is the epidermis, and the top layer of the epidermis is the stratum corneum (SC). Even though the SC is very thin (10-30 mm) it is the main barrier of the skin. It keeps chemicals that come in contact with the skin from absorbing into the body, and it keeps water inside the skin from leaching out.

The SC contains three types of lipids - ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. These lipids have different chemical compositions and different functions throughout the body.

There are nine different types of ceramides in the SC, conveniently named ceramide 1 through ceramide 9, and they account for 40-50% of the lipids in this outermost layer.

Scientists have learned that people who have eczema have significantly fewer ceramides in their SC. Recent studies have shown that lipids can be replaced with topical preparations. Interestingly, all three lipids have to be replaced at a certain ratio to restore the barrier function of the skin. If the incorrect balance of lipids is applied, it actually takes longer for the skin to heal. The healing effect of ceramides has been studied in eczema, but there are no studies yet for psoriasis.

There are several moisturizers that claim to have ceramides in their ingredients, but these are just regular moisturizers unless they can show:
* The moisturizer also contains cholesterol and free fatty acids
* The ratio of these three ingredients is correct

Pseudo-ceramides are the new kind of synthetic lipids. These days, pseudo-ceramides are used as a new and innovative skin-healing synthetic lipids developed by the scientists. They are used in treating numerous kinds of skin problems like acne, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and gluco-corticoid epidermal atrophy. These skin disorders are characterized by presence of redness, flakiness, itchiness, scaly patches and shrinking of the skin.

The pseudo-ceramides derivatives are applied in a dermatologic extrinsic preparations then the moisture sustaining property of the skin is enhanced. Also it is said that these pseudo derivatives maintain the elasticity of skin and is further useful in protecting the skin from aging. Besides this they are helpful in inducing the organization of lipid layer on battered skin and ultimately inhibit the lipid-synthesis, thus giving a better shape to the outer structure of face.

It is well proved that the pseudo-ceramides specially the horny cell layer ceramides are the major constituents of epidermal barrier. They have also drawn attention of the medical practitioners due to their function as a moisturizing agent which can enhance life of facial skin cells. They are much more successful in treating skin disorders like asteatosis cutis dermatitis, fishskin diseases, atopic dermatitis and many other skin problems as compared to other medicines in the same category.

The link between skin disorders and changes in barrier lipid composition, especially in ceramides, is difficult to prove because of the many variables involved. However, most skin disorders that have a diminished barrier function present a decrease in total ceramide content with some differences in the ceramide pattern.